Thursday, November 1, 2012

Train Ride – Ode to Grandma Ivy

My Grandma Ivy is  what one might call a social butterfly. She makes friends wherever she goes, whether it be a trip half way around the world or a trip to the grocery store. She talks to people, she charms people, she befriends EVERYONE.

In line at a movie theater: “Oh, what beautiful hair you have.”

Walking through a restaurant: “Oh, that dish looks delicious. Which was is it?”

Sitting on a bus: “It sure is cold outside. Where are you headed?”

She finds a reason to talk to anyone and everyone and in turn manages to coax the wildest stories out of even the most staunch hermits. She emanates warmth and thus receives it back.

Some people say my grandmother and I are twins. We look alike (if you could stretch your mind across the decades that divide us). We act alike. We are certainly both social creatures. And I must say that I learned a lot from her growing up.  When I was a child I was fortunately enough to be her travel companion on several occasions. We went to New Hampshire, Boston, and Alaska together.

I watched her make friends everywhere we went. I watched how people warmed to her simple friendly chatter. And I loved her and thought the world of her. So it’s probably no surprise that a bit of her rubbed off on me.

I noticed the Grandma Ivy coming out in me on the train ride to Mombasa. I love trains – rolling through the landscape, walking back and forth through the cars, sitting in the dining car, feeling the wind in your hair as you stick your head out the window, meeting all sorts of people… The train to Mombasa is supposed to be an overnight train, arriving in Mombasa around 10AM. But as the train stood perfectly still from around 1am to 4am while I lay in my sleeper, it became more and more apparent that we would not be arriving on time. Sure enough, at breakfast we were informed that the train would be about 8 hours late. Time to get to work.

With nothing to do but stay on the train, I wandered the halls looking for stories. I met an Australian builder traveling around Africa for a year, a Finnish couple who just graduated high school and are volunteering in Kenya, and a handful of Indian guys working on reconstructing the rundown railroad we currently rode on. I chatted with an elderly British couple who have lived all over southern Africa for the last 20 years and who were great at spotting the elephants in the distance as we rolled through the national parks. I had a long conversation about cervical and prostate cancers with a couple middle-aged Kenyan men. I met a few Kenyan University student – one an aspiring analytical chemist, the other an aspiring musician/businessman. I hung out with a couple Red Cross volunteers and a few of the dining car staff. I debated global health strategies with a Guinea Worm consultant in Southern Sudan. I got a history lesson about the railroad from a retired Kenyan couple and sat down with a Dutch couple visiting their daughter for a few weeks.

And of course, I stuck my head out the window, looking over the rows upon rows of sisal plantations, the dry savannah spotted with acacia trees, the dilapidated train stations with little kids running and waving, the piles of burning trash littered with tin shacks an people presumably suffering with all sorts of respiratory problems.

But mostly, I channeled my inner Grandma Ivy. I didn’t notice just how much until I got off the train and started waving good-bye to people at the train station My travel companion just looked as me and asked, “Um, do you know EVERYONE on this train?” Well, maybe not EVERYONE. I can’t in any way claim to be the elegant social butterfly that my Grandma Ivy is, but as Joelle Ivy I guess I took a bit more than just her name.

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